What Exactly is a Chemical Exfoliant?
Chemical exfoliants are skin care products formulated to eliminate dead skin cells from the skin's surface using specific acids or enzymes. This process helps to reveal fresher, smoother skin and can improve a variety of skin concerns, including texture, tone, and blemishes.
How do They Differ from Physical Exfoliants?
Physical exfoliants typically contain small granules or beads that physically scrub away dead skin cells. While effective, they can sometimes be harsh, especially for sensitive skin. Chemical exfoliants, on the other hand, use acids or enzymes to break down the bonds holding dead cells together, providing a gentler and more customizable approach.
Different Types of Chemical Exfoliants
AHA
Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs) are water-soluble acids derived from fruits and other natural sources. They work on the skin's surface to remove dead cells, making them ideal for improving skin texture and tone. Common AHAs include glycolic acid and lactic acid.
BHA
Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHAs) are oil-soluble and can penetrate deeper into the pores to remove dead skin cells and excess sebum. This makes them particularly effective for treating acne-prone and oily skin. The most common BHA is salicylic acid.
PHA
Poly Hydroxy Acids (PHAs) are similar to AHAs but have larger molecules, which means they penetrate the skin more slowly and are less likely to cause irritation. This makes them a good starting point for sensitive skin types. Examples of PHAs include gluconolactone and lactobionic acid.
How do You Know Which Type and Strength of Chemical Exfoliant to Use?
When it comes to the strength of chemical exfoliants, it’s essential to match the concentration to your skin type and concerns. Here’s a detailed guide:
If you have sensitive skin
Sensitive skin can be easily irritated, so starting with lower concentrations of chemical exfoliants is important. For AHAs, look for products with around 5% concentration, which are gentler on the skin. PHAs are also an excellent option due to their mild nature. Begin by using these exfoliants once or twice a week, gradually increasing frequency as your skin adjusts. Always follow with a hydrating moisturizer to support the skin barrier.
If you have acne-prone skin
For acne-prone skin, salicylic acid is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.5% to 2%. This range is effective for clearing pores and preventing acne without causing excessive dryness or irritation. If your skin tolerates it well, you can use it daily or every other day. Look for formulations that also include soothing ingredients like vitamin E or shea butter to help calm inflammation and support skin healing.
If you have normal skin
Normal skin can handle a variety of strengths, allowing you to use moderate concentrations of both AHAs and BHAs. For AHAs, a concentration of 3% to 8% glycolic acid can be effective for regular exfoliation and maintaining smooth, radiant skin. For BHAs, a 2% salicylic acid product can be used a few times a week to keep pores clear. Normal skin types can often benefit from alternating between AHAs and BHAs to address different skin concerns.
If you have mature skin
Mature skin can benefit from higher concentrations of AHAs to promote cell turnover and collagen production. Products with 3% to 8% glycolic acid are suitable for addressing fine lines, wrinkles, and uneven skin texture. These stronger exfoliants can be used two to three times a week, depending on your skin's tolerance. To protect mature skin that is inherently drier and more delicate, it’s also beneficial to incorporate hydrating and anti-aging ingredients, such as hyaluronic acid, vitamin E and peptides, to support the skin's overall health and resilience.
If you have hyperpigmentation or scarring
Higher concentrations of AHAs, particularly glycolic acid at 8% to 10%, are effective for treating hyperpigmentation and scarring. These strengths help to accelerate the removal of discolored skin cells and promote the regeneration of even-toned skin. For scarring, combining AHAs with other active ingredients like retinoids can improve results. Use these products consistently, starting with lower frequencies and gradually increasing as your skin builds tolerance. Always protect your skin with sunscreen to prevent further pigmentation issues.
In Clinic vs At Home
In-clinic treatments often use higher concentrations of chemical exfoliants for faster results. These treatments are performed by professionals who can ensure safety and effectiveness. Vivier offers a range of professional peels, such as the Vivier Peel™ and TX Jessner Plus™ Peel, which are designed to provide deep exfoliation and rejuvenation. These in-clinic treatments can address a variety of skin concerns, including fine lines, wrinkles, hyperpigmentation, and acne, delivering noticeable improvements with minimal downtime.
At-home exfoliants, on the other hand, are generally milder and designed for regular use to maintain skin health. Vivier's Exfoliant Forte and AHA/BHA Exfoliating Cream are excellent options for at-home chemical exfoliation. These products combine effective ingredients at safe concentrations, helping to gently exfoliate the skin, improve texture, and promote a radiant complexion between professional treatments. Another excellent option is the Illuminating Enzymatic Peel - an overnight at-home peel that exfoliates dead skin and contains glycolic acid and salicylic acid. By incorporating these at-home products into your skin care routine, you can maintain the benefits of in-clinic treatments and keep your skin looking its best.
Can You Use More Than One Type of Chemical Exfoliant at a Time?
Yes, you can use more than one type of chemical exfoliant, but it's important to do so carefully. Combining AHAs and BHAs can provide inclusive exfoliation for both the skin's surface and deeper layers. However, introduce them slowly into your routine to avoid over-exfoliation and irritation. Vivier's AHA/BHA Exfoliating Cream is a great option, as it combines both types of acids in a balanced formulation.
What Could Happen if You Over- or Under-Exfoliate?
Over-exfoliation can lead to redness, irritation, increased sensitivity, and a damaged skin barrier, making your skin more prone to environmental damage and breakouts. Under-exfoliation, on the other hand, can result in a buildup of dead skin cells, leading to dullness, clogged pores, and an uneven skin texture. Finding the right balance is key to maintaining healthy, radiant skin.
What is the Most Gentle Chemical Exfoliant?
PHAs are generally considered the most gentle chemical exfoliants. They provide effective exfoliation while being less likely to cause irritation, making them suitable for sensitive skin types. Lower concentrations of lactic acid are also very gentle on the skin because lactic acid also has inherent moisturizing qualities.
Conclusion
Chemical exfoliation is a powerful tool in your skin care arsenal, offering a range of benefits from improving skin texture and tone to addressing specific concerns like acne and hyperpigmentation. By understanding the different types of chemical exfoliants and how to use them, you can achieve smoother, clearer, and more radiant skin. Vivier's range of exfoliating products, such as the AHA/BHA Exfoliating Cream and Exfoliant Forte, are designed to provide professional-level results safely at home. Always remember to follow with a moisturizer and sunscreen to protect and nourish your skin.
